I have been wanting to do my own DIY bedhead project for a while now. After seeing the kitchen feature during my time filming the Make It Yours Series with Bunnings, and after many late night Pinterest sessions, I decided that I wanted to make the bedhead out of Porta Timber half dowel rounds. Below you will find these simple step by step instructions on how to make a DIY headboard to transform your bedroom into a snazzy little sanctuary.

This DIY bedhead is perfect for those that are renting, as you don’t need to fix anything to the wall, and you can bring it with you when you move (although, it is a little heavy and you’ll need 2 people to help carry it).

I have opted to go with the 30mm Tasmanian Oak half-round dowel with a “natural” finish from Porta Timber.

I used Tasmanian Oak for its decorative design and its functional application. I also used it because it does have a subtle range of colours, so it was perfect to keep in its natural state. Using Tassie Oak isn’t the cheapest option but, in my opinion looks more premium.

I say “natural” as I didn’t want to paint or varnish it. I was recently watching an episode of Grand Designs and the house that was getting built was centred around LOW VOC finishes and applications. The Tasmanian Oak from Porta isn’t treated with any chemicals, so this was the perfect fit.

If I was going to paint the headboard, I may have opted to use the Porta dowels in Clear Pine which is a lot cheaper.

I also opted for a full dowel finish on the ends for this DIY but this was a personal preference. You could always frame the headboard but this takes away from the round finish in my opinion. We also used the offcuts from the MDF Board as a little frame for the headboard as we have square skirting, so our headboard sits on top of these and finishes flush to the wall.

• Pencil/Marker
• 1200 Level or ruler
• Hammer
• Tape Measure
• Sandpaper
• Handsaw
• 4 x Quick-Grip Clamps
• Liquid Nails
• Silicone Gun
• Weights (optional)
• 16mm MDF Board (length and height will vary on your room and specifications)
• 30mm Half Round Wood Dowels (number will vary on your MDF Board size)
• 2 x30 mm ¼ Round Wood Dowels
• Packing tape

Bunnings

1. Pre Cut. The good thing about buying from Bunnings for a DYI is you can actually get everything you need cut to size at their premises. So, we cheated and got the headboard and dowels pre-cut to size we needed and delivered. Our headboard was for a queen size bed that had to fit in between power points, so it isn’t a standard size.

2. We got the MDF Board cut 1 cm shorter than the dowels as it creates a shadow line so you can’t see the MDF Board behind the Dowels. Our Dowels are cut at 1200cm (half the length of the full dowel) so the same length can be used twice, which halves the cost of the dowels.

3. There were some lengths that were shorter and longer so we did have to do a little clean up at the end, but I will point that out later.

Instructions

1. Once your MDF board is the length you need it. From one side mark the half-way length at the top and bottom of the board. Using a ruler or level draw a line from top to bottom.
2. On the back of the dowel mark the middle point of the dowel. If you’re using the 30mm dowel it will 15mm.

1. Place the dowel lined up with the middle of the board and “dry lay” the dowels end to end. You should find that on both ends the dowels overhang by about a half.
2. Using the silicone gun put a bead of liquid nails running the entire length of the marked dowel, line up the middle of the dowel on the halfway line on the MDF board.

1. Firmly press the dowel onto the MDF Board using both marks as a guide.
2. Fasten the first dowel with two of the quick grip clamps. I do this with clamps so you don’t get nail holes or need to putty.
3. Using your tap measure, measure the distance from the edge of the MDF board to the dowel at the top and at the bottom to ensure both measurements from the edge of the MDF Board are the same and that the dowel is running parallel to the edge.

1. 8. Repeat step 4,5 & 7 for roughly lay 10 dowels at a time in the one direction. Always re measure to ensure that the dowels are running parallel.
2. Once roughly 10 dowels are laid, remove the clamps holding down the first dowel gently.
3. Place a dowel running across the laid dowels. One on each end. Fasten them tightly using two clamps on either side.
4. Re measure the distance from the edge of the MDF Board to the last dowel to make sure none have moved out of place.

1. Place the cut off MDF Board over the dowel with weights on it to make sure all dowels are firmly bonded.
2. It’s recommended to leave this in place for 12-24hrs. So instead of fixing all the dowels at once, I would fix roughly 10 dowels at a time, leave it for 12-24 hrs and then do another section until the dowels reached the both sides. You can opt to do more if you have more quick grips.

Once all the dowels are fully fixed in position, it’s time to do the ends. Instead of framing the headboard I’ve opted to do a Full Round Edge. It gives a hidden look to the headboard.

At each end of the MDF Board you should have approximately 15mm left. If you are using the 30mm dowels you should have an overhang of 15mm

(note – some of the dowels are uneven, so you may need to sand back the end to make them completely even).

5. Use the clamps on each side to firmly keep the dowels in tact and use the tape to fasten the dowels to the rest of the board in place. Don’t worry about the excess liquid nails or that the dowel sticks out a bit.

6. Leave for 24 hours.

7. Repeat for other side.

8. Once the liquid nails has set, remove clamps and tape and sand back the dowels removing excess liquid nails.

What you should have now is a complete Dowel Headboard with a Full Dowel Finish.

1. Place the MDF Board upright against a wall.

2. Using the liquid nails gun put a bead of Liquid Nails running the entire length of both sides of ¼ and the half dowels. You want to use an amount that is a lot more than normal.

3. Fix the ¼ dowel to the side of the MDF Board, so the edge of the dowel is flush with the back of the MDF Board. The ¼ dowel thickness is only a 1mm thicker than the 16mm MDF Board. You will have spillage of the Liquid Nails which is what we want.

4. Once the ¼ Dowel is fixed to the side of the MDF Board, Attach the last remaining half dowel against the MDF Board and the ¼ Dowel. You want the excess Liquid Nails to come out at the side to ensure there is a complete coverage between the half, 1/4 and MDF Board. The idea is that the excess liquid nails will fill the void space at the back of the quarter dowel attaching itself firmly to the MDF Board as well as the Half Dowel.

5. Use the clamps on each side to firmly keep the dowels in tact and use the tape to fasten the dowels to the rest of the board in place. Don’t worry about the excess liquid nails or that the dowel sticks out a bit.

6. Leave for 24 hours.

7. Repeat for other side.

8. Once the liquid nails has set, remove clamps and tape and sand back the dowels removing excess liquid nails.

What you should have now is a complete Dowel Headboard with a Full Dowel Finish.

This headboard is a pretty easy DIY project to do. It may seem there are a lot of step but it is just repetition more than anything.

Kx